How-to rewire halos as DRL *EDITED (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

[coulomjo]

This is a quick and easy mod, and will cost you less than 10$ if you already own Eagle Eyes headlights!



Before
Halos do not turn on during the day
Halos light up with side LEDs & parking lights (i.e. remote start, night time)
Halos turn off immediately when the car is stopped

After
Halos turn on immediately when the ignition is on (day & night)
Halos DO NOT light up with side LEDs & parking lights (but does turn on with remote start)
Halos turn off after 5-10 seconds when ignition is turned off.

What you will need:
- A pair of EE projector headlights
- 10A mini fuse
- 1 Add-a-fuse kit
- Electrical wire (10ft is more than enough)
- Long nose pliers
- Wire strippers
- Tie-wraps
- Electrical tape
- 7mm socket (not shown on picture)
- Flat head screwdriver (not shown on picture)



Here's a closeup of the Add-a-fuse kit


Instructions:

Step 1
Remove headlights: Open hood, remove all six push-pins with flat head screwdriver located over the upper grilles. Then unscrew all four screws (two per headlight) with the 7mm socket. Wiggle out headlight. (Headlight removal help here).



Step 2
Disconnect the brown/red wire from the headlight. It is located between the main headlamp connector and the halo converter. Put electric tape on the male end (brown, from the main connector) to protect it and secure it with a tie-wrap. Repeat with other headlight.

Step 3
Attach together two wires and secure them into the Add-a-fuse kit. You will need to crush the blue connector to secure the connection in place. Wrap in electrical tape for weatherproofing.

Step 4
Run both wires from the fuse box to each halo converter (I twisted the wire around the female connector of the red wire & used electrical tape to secure everything). Make sure to give yourself some wiggle room at the fuse box (see image below). Make sure they clear any moving parts or heat sources! (I followed my HID relay harnesses over the radiator)

(In this picture I've disconnected the brown/red wire and connected my wire from the fuse box to the female/red wire connector of the halo converter.)


Step 5
Remove battery cover & fuse box cover. Find a fuse that is only powered when the ignition is ON. Initially I had used #6 but for some reason the halos would stay on sometimes. I reccomend using #16 (PCM IGN 1) (works flawlesly). Make your way through the top of the box with your wire (you may need to cut a little opening to let the wire out, otherwise the box cover won't snap in place properly).

Location of FUSE #16 (PCM IGN 1)


Make your way to the top where the positive is connected to the fuse box. It's the only place your wire can come out of the box once the cover is back in place.


Step 6
TEST YOUR MOD before putting everything back together! Make sure your halos don't light up when the ignition is turned OFF. If they are ON while you have your keys in your pocket then you are using the wrong fuse. Insert your key into ignition & turn it to ACC. All four halos should turn ON. When you remove you key they should turn off instantly.

Step 7
Secure your wires with Tie-wraps. Put back fuse box & battery cover. Reinstall headlights. Re-test to make sure everything still works!

Step 8
Enjoy your mod!

08-28-2013 - EDIT - The halos do turn on with remote start when using fuse #6. I've updated the "after" section.
11-04-2013 - EDIT - After verification the fuse I used is #6 and not #47. Thanks justeric78!
11-08-2013 - EDIT - Changed fuse #6 (EMISSION) for #16 (PCM IGN 1). After testing #16 works perfectly (Halos sometimes stays on with #6 and could drain the battery). Picture updated to locate #16

[Drakon543]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

so your halos don't work at all at night now?

[coulomjo]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

They turn on as soon as you put the key in (day or night). I removed the "night time" mention in my post to prevent any misperception.

[moose517]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

seems simple enough! When i can finally get my EE's i'll have to do this.

[Drakon543]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

ya the halos are the coolest part especially if they function all the time.

[coulomjo]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

Halos do turn on with remote start when using fuse #47. I've updated my OP.

[justeric78]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

Just a quick thank you on this. I had to have my halos redone again and decided to do it professionally this time since I was tired of messing with them. I had them use this mod and augmented it a bit to include the side LED's. I clipped the relay to the LED's on the side markers to the turn signal and ran them directly to the add-on fuse as well as the halos. I also relocated my inverter boxes and riveted them to the back of the metal framework behind the headlights. They soldiered all of it together nice and water tight so I am hoping it is a more permanent fix. Now the side marker and halos turn on from key on or remote start couldn't be happier. Thanks again so much! On a side note I have a 10' GXP and the emission fuse is number 6, hope that helps someone else.

[coulomjo]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

On a side note I have a 10' GXP and the emission fuse is number 6, hope that helps someone else.

You know what? You're right, it is #6. I've updated my OP with the information. Thanks!

On a side note this morning I moved the connection from fuse #6 to #16 (PCM IGN 1) as I was having problems with the halos staying ON sometimes. I'll check back with the results.

[coulomjo]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

I've updated my How-to with the following changes:

-Changed fuse #6 (EMISSION) for #16 (PCM IGN 1). After testing #16 works perfectly (Halos sometimes stays on with #6 and could drain the battery).
-Picture updated to locate #16
-Information updated about delay when turning halos off: from "5-10 second delay" to "turns off instantly"

[justeric78]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

You know, I haven't had any problems yet on 6 in fact it turns off immediately when I turn the car off. I wonder if I did something different then you?

[coulomjo]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

You know, I haven't had any problems yet on 6 in fact it turns off immediately when I turn the car off. I wonder if I did something different then you?

I'm guessing it's simply because our cars are different year/model.

In any case I'll go with the safer route, I don't want to feel responsible for someone's dead battery

[ckeelan2087]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

I was going to do this mod, but i found it no problem with mine. Just flipping the lights from auto one shot up to make the halos turn on is good for me.

These headlights are SICK though. I smile every time i see my car running from a distance. Can't help it....

Im sure most people things its a beemer from a distance.... Really looks like it.

[justeric78]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

Just wanted to add from my experience over the last year and a half or so with these lights. If you are installing these with HID's I STRONGLY recommend getting the DDM Tuning harness and run the HID's directly to the battery. Once I did this I had zero issues with the HID's period they have been flawless for 6 months. Second, with the halo's clip them from the stock harness and create a harness per this instruction as it has been rock solid for the last few weeks which is literally longer then they have been good since they were new. I would put down the hundred bucks to have a custom shop you trust do this right. Have them soldier and heat shrink everything. You will blow the ballast if they are not installed properly with this harness and are water tight. I have gone through 4 pairs of inverters (not even kidding) before I gave up and put down the money to have this done right. Save yourself the pain and have it done unless you know what you are doing.

Next, for the sealing of the headlights. Do not use the crappy silicone sealant from Autozone or any other parts store. It is temporary I have learned. After less then six months the stuff started peeling and cracking during the summer. I just took off the little bits here and there through the summer with little rain. I did not realize until the rainy season here but the plastic seal around the lights was warping in the summer heat the whole time which is what caused the silicone seal I added to break. After it started raining it immediately started fogging up on the inside and I knew I had to do something. I paid to have this sealed professionally. What they did was take a grinder and and cut an 8th of an inch all the way around the outside of the lens to create a pit. They then used welders adhesive to not only fill in the gap but to force the seal to be glued to the lens. This is however, not reversible. You think that silicone is nasty? This stuff makes crazy glue look like elmer's. You let it dry on the lens it has to be sanded off, it is not being removed by anything. This is industrial strength stuff and will never let the seal warp off the lens again. From everything I read this is the only permanent solution to seal the headlights if you live somewhere with hot summers. It may have had to do with the humidity here as well but regardless I would not take the chance. Just keep in mind that once this is used you are never cracking into the lights without destroying them and if the halo's die you are replacing the headlights, period.

Lastly, the protective film on these lights is very sub-par. The stuff started stripping off at about 9 months and by a year out it had peeled halfway down the headlights. What I did to resolve this. You can get one o those kits to remove yellow from your headlights which basically removes the rest of the film and removes any protection. The kit will also take out minor scratches in the lens which WILL happen from driving around. Those kits however will not keep it protected for long and they will end up getting scratched badly without protection of some sort over them. What I did was have the same shop that did the above work go at them. This shop does complete customization to cars so they not only have mechanics but they have a paint and body shop as well. Anyway, I had them sand down with very fine grit the entire face of the headlights. This sanding again removed all of the protective film and any scratches or blemishes that had occurred. For protection I had them shoot the lens with the same clear coat they used for touch ups on the body. The clear coat is better in my opinion then the crappy film you can buy to cover headlights as that stuff will get scratched and scuffed and all you can do is try and peel it off and replace it. For about the same cost you can have them clear coated which is buffable and sandable for years to come. When it gets to the point that you are going through the clear you can have the rest again sanded off and a new coat of clear put on. I am like many of us though very deuchey when it comes to my baby so I want to keep these headlights looking beautiful which is why I went through this.

Now, with all this being said. I love these headlights. If I did not I wouldn't have put all of this work and time into trying to keep them going myself. This is the same reason that my $300 headlights are now worth about $700 from all the work put into them. I would still buy them again tomorrow if these went out from all the abuse and wiring I have put them through. They are awesome! So for those that are getting new headlights this is what I would have done from the get go if buying them new.

1. Don't buy the kits with the HID's built into them as most companies do sub-par work installing the headlights. Get headlights and then buy the DDM Tuning HID kit separately and modify the back cap with a hole to pass them through making sure you use the plastic gasket they come with. You can save money by getting the harness at the same time as the HID kit. The drop down for the harness says something like two in two out and is ten bucks right now if you buy with the lights. If you get them separately it is 15 if I recall. There is no need for the error code correction.

2. Before installing the lights they need to be sealed. I didnt do this and paid the price so I hope I save someone the effort. They do need to be sealed there is just no way around that. Get the welders adhesive and pull the seal back a bit as you go along with a stiff small paint brush made for detail. It has to be a tough brush as this stuff is thick. Pull the seam back and follow it around carefully as to not get any on the lens. If you do the next step will fix minor errors anyway. This will seal the headlights permanently hopefully. If they are warped like mine got you may have to have a gap ground in and then fill the gap as I stated above.

3. Take the headlights to a custom shop and have them sand off the protective coat that comes on the lens until it is ground down to the plastic. Once this is done have them shoot it with clear as described above.

4. Once this is all done it is time to have a professional custom shops electrician work his magic. Have him wire the HID's with the harness to the battery (you can if you want do this yourself, I did and it was easy). Do though have the professional rewire the halos with a harness directly to the battery using whatever piggyback fuse you want so that they come on with the car if you would like as per the guide. Make for damn sure they soldier everything together and use heat shrink to make sure everything is water tight. With the nature of the inverters any kind of moisture AT ALL is going to kill the inverters and you will have to go to El Wire Pro to buy new ones (posted the replacement part and URL in another thread). While wiring you will want them to relocate the inverters to a place where they will be dry. I wish I would have had my electrician locate them inside the battery compartment looking back. There is a space on the right side of the compartment where some inverters from El Wire will fit perfectly. If you have larger inverters they may not fit. What we ended up doing was to cut a few holes on the bar that is directly behind the headlights. We then used rivets to place the inverters BEHIND this bar so it is covered from the front and top where water would generally come in. I wish I had taken this step initially instead of just resting them on the bar below the headlights. Tons of water gets down there and I cannot believe I did not start my car on fire.

I hope this helps relieve the frustration for someone else that I have gone through over the last year. Again, I love the headlights but I find all of the above necessary to make them high enough quality to last. Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

I will repost this on the forum thread specific to these lights as well and so the below link is back to this guide for the mod they will need for the halo harness.

http://www.g6performance.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24718&highlight=eagle+eye

[gdtjr]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

I know this is an 'older' thread.. but just curious - I noticed when looking through the manual of my '09 G6 that there's a fuse for DRL. Would it be better to hook it to that or just hook it to the IGN #1 as y'all have it here...?

[coulomjo]

Re: How-to rewire halos as DRL (Eagle Eye headlights) for less than 10$

I know this is an 'older' thread.. but just curious - I noticed when looking through the manual of my '09 G6 that there's a fuse for DRL. Would it be better to hook it to that or just hook it to the IGN #1 as y'all have it here...?

If I remember correctly the DRL circuit is "always on", so using this fuse for the halos means they would stay on, even when the car is stopped.